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POCKET PIZAZZ SCALLOP FOLD HOW TO

If you have not printed General Instructions, please print before you begin this pocket.

Finished size of pocket:4.38" high x 6.50" wide. Design is rotated in hoop. Use a minimum 6"x9" hoop.

Supplies:

Template - Make from Template design or cut to size and label. See General Instructions.

Embroidery thread colors for the following:

If you are embroidering the flowers:
     Vine
     Flowers
Buttonhole
Flap satin edge cover stitching
Topstitching color for topstitching and attaching the pocket to your item or fabric.

Button - 5/8" works well

Fabric:

Flap fabric: 1 each - 8" high x 8" wide fabric for the pocket. If you are using a fabric with a definite pattern, the 8" side of the fabric will be the top of your piece so keep that in mind when cutting.

Flap light weight stabilizer: 1 each - 5-1/2"x6-1/2"

Pocket fabric: 1 each - 13-1/2"x 8" piece. The 8" edge will be the top of your fabric.

Optional: HeatnBond lightweight or similar appliqué product: 1 each - 4-1/4"x6-1/4" piece of light weight stabilizer

PREPARE FLAP AND POCKET

To make sure your pocket will be the right size use the template as instructed below for perfect results. See the General Instructions to make the template.

START WITH FLAP FABRIC (8"X8")

Cut fabric pieces and stabilizer to the specified sizes listed above.

Shown is fabric for the Scalloped Fold pocket which has flowers embroidered on the flap.

Use masking tape to define 5/8" line on ruler. This makes it very easy to locate the correct measurement for the fold.
Place the fabric right side down on the ironing board and lay the ruler along the long side edge to be pressed.

Turn the long side edge of the fabric over the ruler so the edge of the fabric is aligned with the 5/8" line on the ruler and the ruler is pressed firmly against the fold to ensure a correct measurement.

Do not iron on the ruler, but move the ruler's position down about 2" and set the iron on the fabric. Keep the edge of the ruler firmly against the fold of the fabric. Press.

With the iron still in place on the fabric, move the ruler down further and press.

Continue to move the ruler down until the entire side is pressed. This only takes a few seconds.

Using the template, slip the template under the pressed edge of the fabric with the edge against the fold.
Turn the opposite edge over the template, using the template edge as a guide.

Press.

Move the template down and repeat until the edge is finished as shown.

Remove the template.

 

Fold the fabric in half, aligning the top and bottom raw edges as well as the pressed sides of the fabric.

Press the fold so it creases well.

Prepare the stabilizer.

Press 2" down on the 5-1/2" side so the piece now measures 3-1/2"x6-1/2".

 

Spray the folded side of the stabilizer with embroidery adhesive spray.
Open out the folded flap piece.

Lift one side pressed in edge and place the stabilizer, fold side down, under the pressed edge.

The fold on the stabilizer should be aligned with center crease and the side with the side crease on the fabric.
Slip the other side of the stabilizer under the opposite side pressed edge.

Smooth with your hands.

Press. 

Spray the inside with embroidery spray adhesive.

 

Hint: To spray fabric pieces with embroidery spray adhesive without having to worry about the spray ending up on other items, hold the fabric piece inside a trash basket lined with plastic liner while you spray.

Use Steam-a-Seam doubled-sided adhesive tape or similar product and lay a strip of the tape along the fold of both the right and left side edges beginning at the center crease and ending at the bottom edge.

Also place tape across the bottom raw edge

Press according to the Steam-a-Seam package instructions. Set aside the prepared flap while you prepare the pocket.

Finished size is 4" high x 6-1/2" wide.

POCKET PREPARATION
Press in long sides on the pocket piece as you did for the flap using the template in the same way.

Width on the pocket should be 6-1/2".

EMBROIDER FLAP
Load the 8 Scalloped Fold or 8 Scalloped Fold No Flowers design into your machine. Note: the two designs have different buttonhole placement.

Hoop a minimum 6"x9" hoop with clear Badgemaster film or similar product.

1.  Embroider the placement line.

Align the fold of the prepared flap along the bottom line (on your right.) Raw edges will be on your left, toward the open side of your machine's throat area.

Flap will align with the placement line.

 

While holding the pocket in the correct position, place tape half on the fabric and the remaining tape onto the stabilizer. Tape the top raw edge and top corners of the flap fabric.

2. Embroider the flap trim line.

Trim away the fabric below the fabric trim line using sharp, curved scissors. Place the lower blade against the stitching and trim as you gently pull up on the fabric.

If you are embroidering the Fold Over No Roses, skip steps 3 through 4.

3.  Embroider the vine.    

4. Change the thread to the color you have selected for the flowers. Embroider the flowers.

Remove the tape from the corners, but leave the center piece of tape.

5. Change the thread to the color you selected for the flap satin cover stitching. Embroider the flap satin cover stitching.

6. Embroider the buttonhole. For the flap without flowers, the buttonhole will sew out horizontally instead of vertically.

Remove the tape from the top edge.

Take the pocket piece you set aside earlier.

Position the pocket piece with the right side down, aligning one raw edge with the raw edge of the flap in the hoop.

Align the sides as well.

 

 

Place tape on the sides again, but lay it in the opposite direction to hold down both the sides and the pressed in sides.

7.  Embroider the seam line and zigzag edge finish. Embroidery is finished.

Remove the hoop from the machine and stabilizer from the hoop.

Turn the hoop over and carefully cut the thread placement stitching next to the bottom edge of the flap.

Carefully pull away stabilizer from around the flap.

If you want to remove the Badgemaster stabilizer from the back of the flap, run warm water over the back flap area until the the stabilizer residue washes away completely.

Lay the wet area flat on an absorbent towel and blot to absorb excess water. Allow to dry flat or use a blow dryer to finish drying. It takes about 5 minutes

.Press the right side of the seam.

On the wrong side of the piece, trim the finished seam of the flap at a diagonal from the outside stitching down toward the inside.

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2

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4

Lift the seam and slip a piece of Steam-a-Seam tape underneath making sure the tape does not extend beyond the seam.

Press the seam to fully activate the Steam-a-Seam tape.

Turn the piece over and press again on the right side. This holds the seam securely in place.

To form the flap on your pocket, fold the right side of the embroidery flap down over the wrong side of the pocket piece 2-3/4", measuring in the middle of the flap.

Press in the crease.

On the wrong side of the piece, position the template at the bottom end of the pocket piece as shown .

Holding the template in place, fold it up and then press in a crease in the fabric.

 

Open the folded piece back up.

Place Steam-a-Seam or similar product along both sides from the crease to the raw bottom edge.

Fold the flap up along the pressed fold, aligning the sides.


Press the front and back well to ensure the Steam-a-Seam adheres well.

Fold the flap up so the bottom fold comes up to the flap fold. Make sure the sides align exactly.

Press the bottom to crease well.

Open the piece back up. Place Steam-a-Seam tape along only the sides, starting at the flap fold to the bottom fold.

Fold the flap up so the bottom fold comes up to the flap fold. Make sure the sides align exactly.

Press the front and back well to ensure the Steam-a-Seam adheres well.

Fold the flap down over the newly formed pocket and press.

Cut the buttonhole slit.

Turn the flap up at the button hole and, using disappearing ink, mark a spot beneath the buttonhole directly in the center for sewing on a button later.

The pocket is ready to attach.

Once you have attached your pocket to your project, sew on the button.

 ATTACHING THE POCKET

You can attach the pocket in two ways or use it as a stand alone design.
You can use any of the pockets with flaps just like you would an envelope. Don't attach it at all. Simply stitch the sides and bottom and use it for money or other small gifts or attach it to the back of a quilt to be able to include quilt history.

 

You can attach any of the flap pockets stitching down only the sides and bottom of the pocket. Shown is the Scallop Fold No Flowers design.

This forms a second, open pocket at the back as well as giving you a closed pocket in the front. This is perfect for purses and totes!

You can see this in the project how-to page. Just go back to the main page and click on the project how-to link.

To attach the pocket by fusing the back to your project:
Use the 4-1/2"x6-1/4" piece of  HeatnBond and apply web side down. According to directions, apply iron for 2 seconds.

Lift off paper backing.

Available at WalMart and other stores.

Position the pocket on your project as desired.

Pin in place.

Turn to back side of project. If the pocket is not visible from the back side, use the pins as a guide and press for 10 seconds according to the directions on the HeatnBond product. Your pocket is secured in place and won't shift or move while you stitch it down.

If you cannot use the HeatnBond product for whatever reason, you can simply pin your pocket in place.

Fold Over Pocket

Fold Over No Rose Pocket

Choose a decorative stitching to use around the pocket edges. Experiment first with scrap fabric and then stitch the two sides and the bottom edges.

Choose a button and hand sew it in place.