TIE-UPS IN THE HOOP
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This is a copyrighted and licensed design for home use by the original purchaser only and is protected under U.S. Copyright Laws. Unauthorized reproduction or distribution of this product, or any portion of it, is forbidden. Please contact me, if you wish to use this design for sale. MADE IN U.S.A. Copyright Roberta Amundson 2007 This design was stitched with high-quality, 40-weight thread, which is recommended for this design. If a different weight thread is used, the results may vary from the sample design. Here are some hints for trimming your fabric very close to the stitching.1. The most important thing I can suggest is having very good embroidery scissors. You'll want scissors that have curved blades, thin tips and very sharp blades. Those blade tips will get into the nooks and crannies easily. 2. Gently pull the fabric upwards as you trim. Keeping tension on the fabric allows your scissors to move easily along the trim line. Trim so the blades are pushed up against the trim line. 3. You can slip the scissor blade under a tight area like a curve or point and simply cut in just to the stitching. This allows you to pull the piece up, again giving you tension for trimming close in these areas. 4. Remove your hoop from your machine. Move your hoop around to cut in whatever direction works best for you. On curves or points, trim from opposite directions. 5. Once you've trimmed, if some areas still need a closer trim, pick up the hoop with your non-scissor hand and place your fingers under the area that needs closer trimming. You can actually press down against your fingers positioned under the hoop as you trim which helps to get that last bit of fabric off. |
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Supplies Needed Inside pocket - 2 6"x6" pieces of lightweight fabric, lace or netting. Heavy or two sided fabrics, use only 1 6"x6" piece. Outside cover - 2 8"x6" pieces of fabric, one for inside and one for outside 1 8"x6" piece of stabilizer. Use medium weight for a more crisp fold; use heavy weight or Pellon Thermolan® for a softer feel or, for two sided fabrics, omit completely. 2 12" pieces of 1/8" to 1/4" wide ribbon Water soluble stabilizer for hooping. One color of thread to compliment fabrics used. Wind 1/3 bobbin in the same color thread. |
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Ignore the color changes in the design thread sequence.
These are used to bring the machine to a stop. You will use only one color
of thread throughout the entire design. Load the Tie Up design into your embroidery machine. Select a hoop size to fit a 5"X7" design. |
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Hoop water soluble stabilizer into the hoop and attach it to
your machine. I found clear water soluble stabilizer such as Badgemaster® worked well as it tears away at the completion of the design and doesn't have to be washed. However, if you are using a fragile fabric, lace or netting for the inside piece, it is better to use a more stable stabilizer and simply wash away the stabilizer when the design is complete. Of course, you must use washable fabric to be able to wash away the stabilizer. |
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1. Stitch the Inside Piece placement line. This line shows you where to place your fabric. |
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Take the two pieces of 6"x6" fabric and place them wrong
sides together. You can use an embroidery adhesive spray, if desired, to
hold the two pieces together. For netting or lace, use two pieces unless your lace is heavy enough to hold a satin stitched edging. For heavy fabric like denim or a two sided fabric such as suede/shearling or double sided quilted fabric, only use one piece. |
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Place the prepared fabric so it completely covers the
Placement Line. Note: Place the side of the fabric you want to show down. The inside or wrong side of the piece should be facing up. Hold in place while the Tack Down Line stitches. Loose weaved netting does not always catch in the Tack Down Stitching. To secure it I used one layer of regular Solvy®, sprayed the Solvy® with embroidery adhesive spray, and laid it on top of the netting. Once the satin cover stitching is in place, gently tear it away. |
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2. Stitch the Tack Down Line. |
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Remove the hoop from the machine. Trim close to the Tack Down Line. You want to get as close as possible so the finished design will not have fibers sticking out. Use sharp, curved embroidery scissors to get right next to the stitching. Pull up on the outer edge of the fabric slightly as you trim. Replace the hoop onto the machine. |
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3. Stitch the top and bottom satin cover stitch. 4. Stitch the Outside Piece Placement Line. |
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Prepare the Outside Fabric Piece by sandwiching stabilizer in between the 6"x8" pieces of fabric, wrong sides together. Only if you are using double sided fabric, stabilizer is not necessary. Use an embroidery spray adhesive to hold the pieces together, if desired. Place the prepared Outside Fabric Piece so the fabric you want to show on the outside is up, facing you. Hold in place while you stitch the Tack Down Line. |
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5. Stitch the Tack Down Line. |
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Remove the hoop from the machine. Trim close to the Tack Down Line stitching. Turn the hoop to the back side and trim all jump threads and double check along the sides of the inside pocket to see if any new fuzzies have popped out that need trimming. Return the hoop to the machine. |
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6. Stitch the Ribbon Placement Lines. Place one piece of the ribbon centered over the placement line in each of the middle scallops on each end of the Outside Piece. Tape the ribbon pieces in place with masking tape. |
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7. Stitch the Tack Down Line. |
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Remove the tape and trim close to Tack Down Line stitch. Trim jump stitches. |
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8. Stitch the satin cover stitching around the outside edge
of the piece. This completes the design. Remove the hoop from the machine. |
![]() Shown is back side where stabilizer must be removed from the flap areas and inside pocket. |
If you used a clear stabilizer, tear it away from around the design and, on the back, from the flaps and inside piece. It should leave no residual. For fragile fabrics such as netting or lace, you should have used a more stable water soluble stabilizer. Cut away the excess from around the outside edge leaving about 1/4" so as not to cut the satin stitching. Then simply rinse thoroughly in warm water to remove the remaining stabilizer and hang to dry. Do not wring and do not use this type of stabilizer, if your fabrics are not washable! |