Wallet How To

Note: 5x7 size you must fold cash to fit in cash pocket.
The 6x9 size allows you to put cash in the pocket without folding it.


Preparation
	1/4 Yard of Fabric 1/4 Yard of Contrast Fabric (flaps, cash pocket and inside of wallet) 1/4 Yard of Pellon Thermolam® Stabilizer 1/4 Yard of Craft Fuse Stabilizer 1/4 Yard Solvy light weight stabilizer 1/2 Yard of wash away stabilizer Embroidery thread for: Decorative trim Leaves Roses Outline Satin cover stitching around wallet edge 2 Sets of Velcro® sew-on hook and loop pieces Masking Tape Sulky® KK2000 Embroidery Adhesive Spray (Optional)
	Wind a bobbin full of the same embroidery thread you plan to use for the satin cover stitching going around the wallet edge. Place bobbin in your embroidery machine.
Wallet - 1st Hooping, Flaps
	Load Flaps or Flaps with No Rose design into embroidery machine. Hoop wash-away stabilizer in hoop. 1. Embroider the placement lines for the Pellon Thermolan® stabilizer Place a piece of Pellon Thermolan® stabilizer over the placement line. Hold the stabilizer in place with your fingers until the machine begins stitching the tack down line. 2. Embroider the tack down line and trim the stabilizer close to the stitching using sharp, curved embroidery scissors
	3. Embroider the Contrasting Fabric placement lines. Place contrasting fabric over the placement line. Use Sulky® KK2000 temporary embroidery spray on back of fabric to hold fabric in place.

	4. Embroider the contrasting fabric tack down line.
	Embroider using thread colors to compliment fabrics used: 5. Decorative trim (line below roses) 6. Leaves - Use green thread color of choice 7. Roses - Use thread color of choice 8. Outline - Use a thread color much darker than roses such as a dark gray as shown. OMIT STEPS 6 THROUGH 9 IF YOU ARE USING DESIGN WITHOUT ROSES.
	Remove hoop from machine and turn it over to back side.
	Place a piece of contrast fabric to cover flaps outlines. Use masking tape on top and bottom below stitching area to secure in place.
	9. Embroider tack down lines. Remove the hoop from machine and trim around stitching. Replace the hoop on the machine.

	10. Embroider the satin cover stitching.
	Trim around satin cover stitching about 1/8" to 1/4" away being careful not to cut into stitching.
	Use a wet clean cloth to dissolve the wash-away stabilizer around satin cover stitching.
	Finished flaps, front and back. Set aside to dry and for later use.
Wallet - 2nd Hooping, Credit Card Piece Load Credit Card Piece or Credit Card Piece 6x9 design into embroidery machine, depending on the size you are making. Hoop wash-away stabilizer in hoop. Change to a size 14 embroidery needle.
	Cut a piece of contrast fabric 6"x9" and a piece of fusible Pellon Craft Fuse® . Follow the Craft Fuse® directions and fuse the Craft Fuse® to the back of the contrast fabric. 1. Embroider the contrasting fabric placement line.
	Place the prepared contrasting fabric piece over the placement line. Spray Sulky® KK2000 on the fabric back, if desired, to hold the fabric piece in place. 2. Embroider the tack down line.
Prepare the strips for the credit card slots. (Hint: This can be done ahead of time while embroidering the satin cover stitching on the flaps in the 1st hooping.) Cut 2-1/2" strips from the Craft Fuse® stabilizer. The stabilizer usually measures 23" wide and you will need two strips 3" x 23". Cut strips of the fabric (same as what you'll use on the outside of the wallet) 6-1/4" wide. Note that other strips made in this project are done in the same way.
	Place the Craft Fuse® strip over the fabric strip aligning the edges.
	Lightly press the Craft Fuse® . Make sure shiny side is down!
	Fold the fabric strip in half and press to get a good crease.
	Cut the strips into 6 equal pieces.
	3. Embroider 1st slot placement line. Do not clip the beginning thread tail when the stitching starts. This will help you align the slot strip.
	Take a slot strip and align the fold from the beginning point across to the end point of stitching. The thread tail will help locate the beginning point when using the same color thread. Where the needle stopped will show you the end point. This makes it easy to find the two points to align the piece properly. Tape in place across the folded top edge. 4. Embroider tack down line.
	Trim around around stitching along the raw edge sides. Remove the hoop, if necessary. Return the hoop to the machine.
	5. Embroider placement line for slot 2. 6. Embroider tack down line for slot 2. Trim.
	Hint: To help with placement, you can check measurement on both sides of the slot so the folded edge will be straight and even across the wallet. This measurement will vary depending on whether you use the 6x9 hoop size wallet or 5x7 hoop size.
	Repeat as follows: 7. Embroider placement line for slot 3. Place strip. 8. Embroider tack down line for slot 3. Trim. 9. Embroider placement line for slot 4. Place strip. 10. Embroider tack down line for slot 4. Trim. 11. Embroider placement line for slot 5. Place strip. 12. Embroider tack down line for slot 5. Trim. 13. Embroider placement line for slot 6. Place strip. 14. Embroider tack down line for slot 6. Trim.
	15. Embroider center satin cover stitch.
	Remove the hoop from the machine and turn the hoop over. Place the back fabric so ends extend over stitching and tape in place. Return the hoop to the machine.
	16. Stitch the back fabric tack down line. Remove the hoop from the machine and trim. Replace the hoop on the machine.
	17. Embroider the cash pocket placement line. Mark on the stabilizer with a pencil next to the beginning and end points of the placement line. Prepare the cash pocket strip by cutting a Craft Fuse® strip 4"x10" and a fabric strip 8-1/4"x10". Align the Craft Fuse® as you did for the slot strips, iron and press in half lengthwise.
	Align the cash strip on the back side of the hoop, matching the top folded edge with the pencil marks on the stabilizer. You can measure the distance from the fold to the top edge of the wallet on both sides to ensure the strip will be straight. Tape in place and replace hoop on the machine. 18. Embroider the tack down line for the cash pocket. Remove the hoop from the machine and trim around edges. Replace the hoop on the machine. Tape down the pockets. This is important because, when the cover stitch finishes embroidering, some machines will come back to the center of the design. When that happens, the machine foot can catch on the slots if they are not secured.

	19. Embroider the left side edge cover stitch and cash pocket bottom cover stitch. Remove the hoop from the machine and the stabilizer piece from the hoop. (Back side shown)
	Trim the cover stitch edge ONLY to within 1/4" as you did with the flaps. Leave about 1" of stabilizer around the raw edges of the piece. You will use this excess fabric during placement on the wallet in the third hooping.
	Using a cloth, dissolve the excess stabilizer from the satin cover stitch edge as you did for the flaps.
	On left is credit card slots and on right is cash pocket side of piece.
Wallet - 3rd Hooping, Wallet Assembly
	Use size 14 embroidery needle. Load Wallet or Wallet 6x9 design into machine. 1. Embroider Pellon Thermolam® placement line. Place Thermolam® to cover stitching. 2. Embroider Thermolam® tack down line. Trim.
	3. Embroider flaps placement line.
	Place flaps right sides together, matching edges and stitching. Tape together.
	Place flap pieces so raw edges match placement line in hoop.
	Tape bottom raw edge to Thermolam® to hold in place. 4. Embroider tack down line.
	Trim edge leaving 1/8" of fabric extending below the tack down line.
	5. Embroider outside fabric placement line.
	Place fabric to cover stitching. Use Sulky® KK2000 adhesive spray on back of fabric, if desired. 6. Embroider outside fabric tack down line. Trim.
	Prepare coin pocket. Cut a 6"x 4" piece of Craft Fuse® stabilizer and an 8-1/4"x6" piece of outside fabric. Press the Craft Fuse® onto the fabric as you did with the cash and slot strips and press folded fabric. 7. Embroider coin pocket placement line. Align strip fold across wallet between entry and exit points . Tape in place.
	8. Embroider coin pocket tack down line. Trim.
	9. Embroider coin pocket center cover stitch.
	Remove the hoop from the machine. Turn it over to the back side and place back fabric to cover stitching. Tape in place as before. Return the hoop to the machine. 10. Embroider the back fabric tack down line. Trim.
	11. Embroider left side satin cover stitching.
	Remove the hoop from the machine. Turn to the back side. Take the credit card piece and, with the credit card slots facing up, align the satin cover stitching and raw edges.
	As you align the credit card piece, tape the 1" border of stabilizer you left around the credit card piece to the hooped stabilizer. MAKE SURE you have aligned the two satin cover stitching edges first and then the raw edges will match up.
	To ensure the credit card slots do not hang on anything as you finish the wallet, use a piece of Solvy® stabilizer to cover the entire back piece. Tape it in place. Return the Hoop to the machine. 12. Embroider the credit card piece tack down line.

	13. Embroider the final satin cover stitching. Remove the hoop from the machine. Remove the stabilizer from the hoop with the wallet still attached. Remove the Solvy® from the back side of the wallet. Trim around wallet edges about 1/8" to 1/4" away from satin cover stitching. Use a wet cloth to dissolve the residue of the wash-away stabilizer. Let edges dry.

Finished Wallet, outside view with coin pocket.	Sew on Velcro® spots on both flaps.

	Finished wallet.
	Fun to add some bling-bling!